Our top recommendations: 1. Worcester Bosch — consistently reliable, up to 12-year warranty. 2. Vaillant — German engineering, very efficient. 3. Baxi — great value, reliable. These three account for 80%+ of our installations.

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Both premium brands. Reliability: both excellent. Efficiency: very similar (94%+). Noise: Vaillant slightly quieter. Warranty: both up to 10-12 years. Price: Worcester slightly cheaper. We're accredited for both.

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Both owned by BDR Thermea, but we prefer Baxi for: better build quality, fewer callbacks, better parts availability locally, competitive warranty terms, and they're easier to work on. Ideal isn't bad — just not our first choice. We'll happily service or repair Ideal boilers.

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Price: Baxi £400-800 less. Reliability: Worcester slight edge. Warranty: Worcester up to 12 years, Baxi up to 10. Value: Baxi wins — 90% of performance at 70% of price. Our advice: budget matters? Go Baxi. Want the absolute best? Go Worcester.

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No — depends on brand, model, and installer. Worcester up to 12 years, Vaillant up to 10, Baxi up to 10. Longer warranties require installation by a manufacturer-accredited engineer (like us). Non-accredited may only get 2-5 years. Annual servicing is also required.

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Check: find your installation date (benchmark log inside boiler), check the warranty period, verify servicing records (most warranties require annual servicing), contact the manufacturer with your serial number. If expired, we repair all brands regardless.

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The premium choice: up to 12-year warranty (industry longest), hydrogen-blend ready, ultra-quiet, 94%+ efficiency, smart controls compatible, sleek design. More expensive than the 2000 range but the longer warranty and better components make it worthwhile. It's the boiler we'd put in our own homes.

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Most boilers have a reset button on the front panel — it's usually marked with a flame icon or says 'Reset'. Press and hold it for 3-5 seconds, then release. The boiler should attempt to reignite.

If your boiler locks out again after resetting, there's an underlying fault that needs diagnosing. Don't keep resetting it repeatedly — this won't fix the root cause and could mask a serious issue.

Common reasons a boiler needs resetting include low pressure, a frozen condensate pipe, or an ignition failure. Check your pressure gauge first — it should read between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

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Boiler pressure dropping is one of the most common issues we see. Normal pressure should sit between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on your gauge.

Common causes:

• A leak in the system — even a tiny drip from a radiator valve or pipe joint can cause pressure loss over time
• Bleeding radiators — when you bleed air out, water (and pressure) drops too
• Faulty pressure relief valve — if it's weeping, you'll see water dripping from the copper pipe outside
• Expansion vessel failure — the vessel absorbs pressure changes; when it fails, pressure fluctuates

You can repressurise your boiler using the filling loop (the braided silver hose underneath). Open the valves slowly until the gauge reads 1.2 bar, then close them. If pressure drops again within a few days, you've got a leak that needs finding.

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Banging or clunking from your boiler is usually caused by a build-up of sludge and limescale in the heat exchanger — this is called kettling. Mineral deposits restrict water flow, causing it to overheat and create steam pockets that collapse with a bang.

Other causes include air trapped in the system, a faulty pump, or loose pipework that expands and contracts with heat.

A powerflush can clear sludge build-up and often solves the problem completely. This involves pumping high-pressure water and cleaning chemicals through your entire system to flush out debris.

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Kettling is when your boiler sounds like a kettle boiling — rumbling, banging, or whistling. It happens when limescale or sludge builds up on the heat exchanger, restricting water flow and causing localised boiling.

It's more common in hard water areas, though the North East generally has softer water. Older systems without a magnetic filter are particularly prone to it.

Left untreated, kettling reduces your boiler's efficiency and shortens its lifespan. A powerflush combined with fitting a magnetic filter usually fixes it and prevents it returning.

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If your hot water starts hot then goes cold, the most common causes are:

• Combi boiler struggling with demand — if you're running multiple taps, a combi may not keep up
• Diverter valve sticking — in a combi, the diverter valve switches between heating and hot water. If it's stuck or worn, it can't maintain hot water properly
• Flow rate too high — turning your hot tap fully on can overwhelm the boiler. Try reducing the flow slightly
• Heat exchanger scaled up — limescale build-up reduces the boiler's ability to heat water efficiently

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Before calling an engineer, run through these quick checks:

1. Is the boiler actually on? Check the display — is there an error code showing?
2. Check the pressure — if it's below 1 bar, repressurise using the filling loop
3. Check the thermostat — make sure hot water temperature is set high enough (55-60°C)
4. Check the timer/programmer — is hot water scheduled to be on right now?
5. Try resetting the boiler — press and hold the reset button for 3-5 seconds
6. Check if heating works — if heating is fine but no hot water, the diverter valve is likely the issue

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A leaking boiler should be taken seriously. Here's what to do:

1. Don't panic — most leaks are minor and fixable
2. Turn off the boiler
3. Turn off the water supply if the leak is significant
4. Contain the water — put a towel or bowl underneath
5. Don't try to fix it yourself — boiler internals should only be accessed by a Gas Safe registered engineer

Common leak causes: corroded heat exchanger, failed pump seal, loose pipe connections, or a faulty pressure relief valve.

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It depends on the severity. A small drip from underneath is unlikely to be dangerous but should be fixed promptly.

When it IS an emergency: if you can smell gas alongside the leak, leave the house immediately, call the Gas Emergency line on 0800 111 999, and don't touch any electrical switches.

A water-only leak is not an emergency but shouldn't be ignored. Turn the boiler off, contain the water, and book a repair.

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The condensate pipe carries waste water from your boiler to the drain. In cold weather — especially in the North East — it can freeze, causing your boiler to lock out.

How to thaw it:

1. Locate the condensate pipe — the white or grey plastic pipe running outside
2. Pour warm (not boiling) water over the frozen section
3. Use a hot water bottle or warm cloth
4. Once thawed, reset your boiler

To prevent it: we can insulate the pipe with foam lagging. This is one of our most common winter call-outs across the North East.

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A rotten egg smell near your boiler is usually caused by a gas leak or bacteria in stagnant water.

If you smell gas: open windows, don't use any electrical switches, leave the property, and call 0800 111 999.

If it's not gas: the smell could be from stagnant water in an unused system, or bacteria in a hot water cylinder. Flushing the system usually solves it.

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Pump overrun is actually normal — it's not a fault. After your boiler switches off, the pump continues running for a few minutes to circulate remaining hot water. This prevents the heat exchanger from overheating.

However, if the pump runs continuously and never stops, there may be a fault with the pump, PCB, or wiring.

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The issues we see most often across the North East:

1. No heating or hot water — check thermostat, timer, pressure, error codes
2. Boiler keeps switching off — low pressure, blocked condensate, or faulty thermostat
3. Leaking or dripping — pump seal or pressure valve failure
4. Banging/kettling noises — sludge build-up; needs a powerflush
5. Radiators not heating up — trapped air or sludge blockage
6. Pressure dropping — leak or expansion vessel failure
7. Frozen condensate pipe — common in North East winters
8. No pilot light — thermocouple or ignition failure
9. Thermostat not working — batteries, programming, or replacement needed
10. Hot water but no heating — diverter valve stuck
11. Error codes — each code points to a specific fault
12. Strange smells — could indicate gas leak; always get checked

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If your taps run hot but radiators stay cold:

1. Check your thermostat — is the room temperature set above current?
2. Check the programmer/timer — is heating scheduled to be on?
3. Check radiator valves — make sure TRVs aren't turned to zero
4. Bleed your radiators — trapped air stops circulation
5. Check for a diverter valve fault — if it sticks in hot water position, heating won't work

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What counts as a boiler emergency?

• Gas smell — call 0800 111 999 immediately
• Carbon monoxide alarm going off — leave and call 999
• Major water leak causing damage
• Complete heating failure in extreme cold

We offer rapid response repairs across the North East — most breakdowns attended same day or next morning. No call-out charge.

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A full boiler service involves:

• Visual inspection — leaks, corrosion, general condition
• Flue gas analysis — measuring combustion efficiency
• Gas pressure check — inlet and burner pressure
• Ignition and flame check
• Controls check — thermostats, timers, safety devices
• Heat exchanger inspection
• Condensate trap clean
• Seals and gaskets check
• System pressure check

A proper service takes 30-60 minutes.

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Every 12 months — for safety, warranty validity, and efficiency. Most manufacturers require annual servicing to keep your warranty valid.

The best time to book is late summer or early autumn — before the winter rush.

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A standard service takes 30 to 60 minutes. Newer boilers with easy access are quicker. If the engineer finds issues, they'll discuss them with you.

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A standard service in the North East costs between £60 and £90. We also offer annual service plans that spread the cost monthly and include priority call-outs.

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12 months after installation. This first service validates your manufacturer warranty. We send you a reminder when it's due.

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A monthly payment covering your annual service and often breakdown cover. Like an MOT and breakdown cover for your boiler. Typically includes annual service, priority call-outs, parts and labour for repairs, and no unexpected bills.

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Beyond the annual service:

• Check pressure monthly (1.0-1.5 bar)
• Bleed radiators if they have cold spots
• Keep the area around the boiler clear
• Run heating briefly in summer to prevent pump seizing
• Insulate the condensate pipe before winter
• Check the external flue isn't blocked

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Gas safety covers every gas appliance:

• Annual boiler service by a Gas Safe registered engineer
• Carbon monoxide detector near every gas appliance
• Verify your engineer at GasSafeRegister.co.uk
• Know the signs of CO — headaches, dizziness, yellow flames
• Don't block ventilation around gas appliances

Every engineer at AR Heating & Gas is Gas Safe registered.

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Landlords are legally required to have annual Gas Safety checks on every gas appliance in rental properties.

• Must be done by a Gas Safe registered engineer
• CP12 certificate must be given to tenants within 28 days
• Records kept for 2 years
• Failure to comply: fines up to £6,000 or imprisonment

We offer landlord packages covering multiple properties across the North East.

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Boiler cover gives you peace of mind against unexpected repair bills. Look for: annual service included, parts and labour covered, no excess, 24/7 helpline.

Our service plans offer similar protection directly from your local engineer — often better value than national providers.

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EA means ignition failure. The boiler tried to light but couldn't establish a flame.

Common causes: frozen condensate pipe, gas supply issue, faulty ignition lead or electrode, gas valve failure.

What to try: check gas supply, thaw condensate pipe with warm water, reset once. If it locks out again, you need an engineer.

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D5 means low water pressure. The system pressure has dropped below minimum.

Repressurise using the filling loop to between 1.0 and 1.5 bar. If pressure keeps dropping, there's a leak that needs finding.

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E9 means the safety temperature limiter has triggered. Your boiler overheated and shut down to protect itself.

Often caused by restricted water flow from sludge build-up, a faulty pump, or blocked pipework. Don't keep resetting. A powerflush often resolves it.

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F28 is the most common Vaillant fault — ignition failure.

Causes (in order of likelihood):

1. Frozen condensate pipe — thaw with warm water and reset
2. Gas supply interrupted — check meter and other appliances
3. Faulty ignition electrode — needs replacing
4. Gas valve failure — requires engineer

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F22 means low water pressure. Repressurise using the filling loop to between 1.0 and 1.5 bar. If it drops again within days, you have a leak.

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F75 means no pressure change when the pump starts. Usually indicates a faulty pump or pressure sensor. Requires an engineer to test and replace the failed component.

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F29 means flame lost during operation. Can be caused by intermittent gas supply, faulty gas valve, blocked flue, or high winds. If it happens regularly, an engineer needs to investigate.

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E133 is the most common Baxi fault — ignition failure. Check condensate pipe, gas supply, then try one reset. If it fails again, you need an engineer.

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E119 means low water pressure. Top up to between 1.0 and 1.5 bar using the filling loop. If you're topping up regularly, there's a leak to find.

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E125 indicates a circulation fault. Water isn't flowing properly — usually due to pump failure, sludge, or a blocked pipe. Often requires a powerflush or pump replacement.

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Common Navien issues:

• E003 — Ignition failure. Check gas and condensate pipe
• E012 — Flame loss. Gas pressure or flue issue
• E016 — Overheating. Do not reset repeatedly
• E030 — Exhaust sensor fault
• E109 — Fan fault

We work with all Navien models and carry common parts.

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Locate the reset button on the front panel (flame icon or labelled 'Reset'). Press and hold for 3-5 seconds. On newer Ideal Logic models, it's below the display.

Note the error code before resetting. If the boiler locks out again, the fault needs professional repair.

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Options: finance from £12/month, government grants (ECO4, Warm Homes Plan), repair instead of replace, or energy company schemes. We'll always give honest advice.

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ECO4 requires energy suppliers to fund efficiency improvements including free or subsidised boiler replacements. You may qualify if you receive certain benefits and your home has a low EPC rating. We can check eligibility for you — it's free to find out.

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Government grants for insulation, heating upgrades, and energy efficiency. Low-income households prioritised. Can combine with ECO4. We can guide you through the application process.

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Available schemes: ECO4 (free boiler for qualifying households), Warm Homes Plan, local authority grants, energy supplier schemes. The North East has some of the highest fuel poverty rates in England — many households qualify without realising.

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Due to global wholesale prices, infrastructure costs, green levies, and geopolitical factors. The best way to reduce your bill: upgrade to an A-rated boiler (saves £200-400/year), improve insulation, and use smart controls.

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Recommended: living rooms 20-21°C, bedrooms 16-18°C, bathrooms 21-23°C, hallways 16-18°C. For elderly or vulnerable people, at least 18°C throughout. Use TRVs for room-by-room control.

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No — use a timer. Your boiler works most efficiently firing at full output for shorter periods. Set it to come on 30 minutes before you need heat. Exception: in very cold weather, set a minimum of 10-12°C overnight to prevent frozen pipes.

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Service your boiler before winter, bleed radiators, insulate the condensate pipe, use your thermostat properly (20°C is comfortable), draught-proof doors and windows, don't block radiators, set frost protection to 10°C minimum, close curtains at dusk.

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Flow temperature (on the boiler): 50-60°C for radiators, 50-55°C for hot water. Room thermostat: 19-21°C. Lower flow temperatures are more efficient for condensing boilers — don't set it to maximum.

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Turn thermostat down 1°C (saves ~£80/year), use your timer, reduce hot water temp to 50°C, lower boiler flow temp to 55°C, fit TRVs, fix dripping hot taps, use a smart thermostat, upgrade an old boiler.

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New boiler prices typically range from £1,790 to £4,500 fully installed:

• Budget combi (Baxi 200) — from £1,790
• Mid-range combi (Baxi 800, Worcester 2000) — £2,200-£2,800
• Premium combi (Worcester 8000, Vaillant ecoTEC Plus) — £2,800-£3,800
• System boiler + cylinder — £3,000-£4,500

All-inclusive prices. We also offer 0% finance options.

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A like-for-like swap takes 4 to 6 hours — usually one day. Moving the boiler: 1-2 days. Converting conventional to combi: 1-2 days. Full system with new radiators: 2-3 days.

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Consider replacing if:

• It's over 10-12 years old (60-70% efficiency vs 90%+ for modern)
• Repair bills are mounting (over £300 in the last year)
• It keeps breaking down
• Energy bills keep rising
• Parts are hard to find

A new A-rated boiler can save £200-400 per year on gas bills.

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Repair if: boiler is under 8 years old, straightforward fix, cost under £300-400, otherwise reliable.

Replace if: over 10 years old, multiple repairs recently, major component failure, parts discontinued, high energy bills.

If a single repair costs more than a third of a new boiler, replacement is usually smarter.

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Combi is ideal if: 1-3 bathrooms, want to free up space, one shower at a time, want simpler heating.

Consider system boiler if: 3+ bathrooms, multiple simultaneous showers, very large house.

Most 2-4 bedroom North East homes suit a combi perfectly.

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Based on radiators and bathrooms:

• 1-2 bed, 1 bathroom — 24-28kW combi
• 3 bed semi, 1 bathroom — 28-30kW
• 3-4 bed, 2 bathrooms — 30-35kW
• 4-5 bed, 3+ bathrooms — 35kW+ or system boiler

Our online quote tool sizes the boiler automatically based on your property.

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No. It is illegal to install, repair, or service a gas boiler unless you are Gas Safe registered. This isn't optional — it's the law. Illegal gas work puts lives at risk and invalidates your insurance and warranty.

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Before our engineer arrives: clear the area around the boiler, ensure access to the boiler, loft (if applicable) and gas meter, turn off heating, keep pets away, let us know about parking. We'll confirm everything beforehand.

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Key rules: 300mm minimum from opening windows, 200mm from corners, no flue under opening windows, 2m+ above ground in public areas. We assess flue positioning as part of every quote.

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If your radiator is warm at the bottom but cold at the top, it needs bleeding:

1. Turn off heating and let radiators cool
2. Get a radiator key
3. Place a cloth under the bleed valve (top corner)
4. Turn anti-clockwise until air hisses out
5. When water dribbles out, close the valve
6. Check boiler pressure — you may need to top up

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Cold at the bottom means sludge build-up. Iron oxide settles at the bottom blocking water flow. Solutions: individual radiator flush, full system powerflush, or fitting a magnetic filter (MagnaClean).

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Different noises: clicking = thermal expansion (normal), gurgling = trapped air (bleed it), humming = pump too fast, banging = pipes expanding or kettling, whistling = valve restriction.

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Balancing ensures all radiators heat evenly. Turn off heating, open all lockshield valves fully, turn heating on, then partially close lockshield valves on radiators that heat fastest. Work through each one until they all reach temperature at the same rate.

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Thermostatic Radiator Valves let you set individual room temperatures. They save energy by only heating rooms you use. Building regulations now require TRVs on new installations. Don't fit one on the radiator in the same room as your thermostat.

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Full installation in the North East: 2-bed flat £3,000-£4,500, 3-bed semi £4,000-£6,000, 4-bed detached £5,500-£8,000+. Includes boiler, radiators, pipework, controls, and system flush.

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Normal: 1.0-1.5 bar (heating off), up to 2 bar when on. Too low: repressurise via filling loop. Too high: bleed a radiator. Relief valve dripping: expansion vessel likely failed.

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